Wednesday, 6 April 2011

Kanchanaburi to Sukathai to Chiang Mai to England


Woohoo! We're getting an old fashoined train to Kanchanaburi! We get to sit in the special tourist section, which as far as I can tell means we get some padding on the seats compared to the free Thai travel section which is just wood. 

Once out of the town centre the scenery, mountains, fields and rivers are really pretty. We meet a new friend from Israel on the train. He did get scammed by the ‘it’s closed’ scam previously mentioned and we have a lovely chat telling him what we know about the history of Kanchanburi and the Death Railway. We must have been super friendly as he sticks with us until the next day. We soon arrive at the River Kwai Bridge, not before my bum really starts to ache on the train though, and it is packed busy! Interestingly this river wasn’t actually called the River Kwai but was mistakenly referred to as such in a book, which was then made into a movie and when the tourists started rolling in the government just renamed the river Kwai to save any confusion. Nice. First stop is the Jeath Museum, a very odd museum about the Death Railway and general Thai stuff they have collected. Some of it is really moving but the weird mannequin models just scare me...I feel like they may just reach out and get me when I’m not looking (hang on, isn’t that an episode of Doctor Who?). We do see a huge lizard though!

Before heading back to our mozzie-ridden hotel we go for a walk along the bridge. How scary this must have been if you were sat on it when it was being bombed as the allies were.  L

That night we enjoy some free pool, shoe shopping and watching random guys with Thai girlfriends sat on their laps who we earlier heard asking for a gay bar...

The following day we spend an hour at the graveyard where the allied soldiers who died building the railway were buried.  This is the saddest thing ever. Rows and rows and rows of gravestones. We don’t even manage to get round more than 4 rows. Young men, younger than us, starved to death, killed, or dead through infections and disease. It takes us a while to gather ourselves before we go back on the railway to the end of the line that still exists. Looking at the rock that was cut out with bare hands or basic tools is shocking and the railway goes on and on and on and this is only the part that still runs. It really puts into perspective what a thing they died building for the sake of war.  

A couple of days later we are in Sukathai, an ancient old capital of Thailand. Most people go to the more accessible Ayatuyhha near Bangkok so it isn’t massively full of tourists here, which is really nice for a change. We do manage to spend our first few hours here drinking capacious amounts of Chang Beer in a mostly tourist bar though – oops! So much so I decide to befriend a girl sat on her own reading a book. Poor girl! Oh and I experience my first toilet that isn’t a flush but a bucket of water thrown down it. Glad I was drunk for that. Sadly, the alcohol also made me forgetful in applying insect repellent and I gather a nice collection of about 20 – 30 leg bites. Oops.

This is the evening we speak to our friends back home, Tom and Clair, and find out the sad news that Tom has cancer and the happy news that they have decided to get married in 4 weeks. Both shell-shocked, Duncan turns to me ‘I have to go home’. I know. We arrange to come home after we have finished Thailand and Chiang Mai but to go back out for Vietnam and Japan.

We spend the next day riding push bikes round the lovely ruins. But it is so damn hot! I have to keep moving to just get a draft to keep me cool. The ruins here are amazing though and we get some beautiful photos. It’s just the relaxing, reflective activity we needed. I mostly enjoy being a tourist attraction for a massive group of Thai tourists, much giggling and staring at the blonde girl, and seeing the Thai flower seller getting the flowers off the monument to re-sell later in the day. Genius.

Over to Chiang Mai a few days later but we have lost a lot of our ‘get up and go’ and I keep feeling heat-stroked every time I go out so we don’t do as much as we could of here. Of course, we made time for shopping at our local Chinese market (more shoes!) and realising we suddenly need to get loads of holiday presents for all the family back home we shop, shop, shop, barter, barter, barter. My Karoooonngg nanananana is coming in very handy – thanks Taya! We also get ourselves sorted with tailor made suits and dresses. So much fun and really well-made (gotta be careful in Thailand and Vietnam as quality can vary drastically). And we find a restaurant that sells English food – would have been great to satisfy my baked beans and jacket potato craving if we weren’t going home in 5 days!

We spend a day on an elephant tour thing which I wish we had never done and would NEVER, NEVER, EVER recommend. The elephants don’t seem to be treated that well and the one we rode had loads of cuts in its head from the keepers knife thing, chains around its feet, and it gets kicked to get moving all the time. I hate it and everyone thinks I am scared of the elephant. Humph. Next we see an elephant show where the elephants do tricks like kicking footballs, carrying logs and painting pictures. Not sure any of these are natural for an elephant...and I find elephants with babies chained in cages with no water or food. Humph. Then we go to a ‘village’ which is just an opportunity for the ladies to sell us more stuff, even bartering over the talking guide. Humph. Then riding ox’s up a dull road that the bus could have taken us up. Humph. And finally we get to see a ‘beautiful’ waterfall, which is man-made as we spot the pipe going back to the top. Humph. Humph. Humph. Rubbish day.

Must end on a high note..... erm we get conned in a taxi in Bangkok again... erm met lots of really rude Indian people in Delhi...erm had an argument with a queue jumper on the airplane ‘Excuse me we are queuing’, ‘oh well, you go first then I’ll go’, ‘Yes, that is how queues work’ ...ok, erm Duncan’s TV didn’t work on the 10hour flight, neither did his reading light, and all his food had nuts or peas in...ok, erm Sarah and Rob met us at Heathrow with a homemade sign and we get to see all our friends again! YAAAAAAY!

Bangkok - fuck yeah!

Right, time to be a tad more 'cultural' and visit some cities and ruins and that. Oh and do some cheap shopping Bangkok of course.

And our first stop is Bangkok where we finally arrive after a ridiculously long and uncomfortable journey which may have included me calling the girl with her chair rammed back into my knees a 'stupid bitch'. Quite loudly.To her face. But in my defence she did keeeeep ramming her chair back and back and then looking at me case my knees were in her back... urm my legs can't get shorter your chair can go up! grrrr. Stupid bitch.

Our first encounter with terrible tourist scamming happens the minute we get off the bus with a taxi driver charging £4 to take us to our hotel...this is a rip off when it should be about a £1. The cheek! And then the following day we get scammed, again, by a taxi driver, again. This time going to meet Taya for shopping, and the taxi driver took us around the houses to go somewhere that should have taken 10/15minutes. In total he ‘scammed’ us for about 40p and I really would have preferred to have given him 80p extra to get us there direct and on time! So, although you’re supposed to always insist on the taxi using the meter for a fair fare we tend to set a higher price before we go so we get to places quicker.

We spent a few amazing days in Bangkok. Shopping with Taya was great! She took us to the Thai places to shop and made sure the store owners didn’t rip us off just because we are tourists, awesome! The only problem was that the Thai shops don’t always have clothes that fit my hippier, European frame. Duncan was fine. She also insisted on taxi’s setting us lower Thai prices, which they didn’t like so much and drove like crazies as a result! We also spent a lovely evening with her and her boyfriend Note eating at traditional Thai street market food stalls that we never would have been able to do otherwise due to everything being written in Thai and our Thai reading skills not being up to much. The dinner food was amazing but I wasn’t a huge fan of the desserts, one of which was made from swallow’s saliva and another popped goo in your mouth! Haha. We also learnt several useful Thai phrases like ‘please may I have?’ ‘pretty pretty pretty please’ ‘I don’t want’ and ‘c*nt’. Excellent. And we learnt a bit more about Thai culture, the reds v yellows war and the Thai opinions towards black and white people. Really fascinating and great to have someone around like Taya. Thanks Taya! I feel like we have been in a tourism programme with all this help!

We spent a day or two unsupervised to really feel like tourists again - lost and ready to be scammed! The most popular scam we came across, and heard other people had actually fallen for, was the ‘it’s closed’ scam. This is when you get near a tourist attraction like the Grand Palace or a Buddha and someone quite innocently tells you the attraction is closed for the next few hours for ‘lunch’ or for ‘sleeping’. It will open again in 2 hours or so but if you like his friend can take you on a tuk-tuk tour of the city. See how that works. Usually you will be taken to a Buddha, gem shop and tailor. In the best case scenario you pay the tuk tuk driver and go to your original destination eventually. Worst case scenario you are physically forced to buy something from the tailor or gem shop. Not good. Luckily we had heard of this scam so just said thank you and carried on to the original destination and surprise, surprise it was open!

The Grand Palace was amazingly beautiful! The detail in all the architecture was so impressive. From the very Asian roofing structure to the mosaic decorations, mini-mirrors and painted halls of elaborate scenes. All of which is constantly under restoration to keep it beautiful and perfect. The abundance of Buddha’s everywhere is quite astounding too. I imagined that there would be just the one maximum in each building or place a bit like just one God but there are always loads, all over the place, even several in one room. It is also great to see people who really truly still believe in religion and respect it. Not a big fan of the lack of interaction allowed between monks and women though. Anyway...


Loving Bangkok!